7.7.08

Lovely Planet: la Repubblica Ceca




Introduzione

Passare dalla Germania alla Repubblica Ceca è stato un colpo, è stato come ritrovarsi tutto d'un tratto buttati giù dalla prima alla terza classe. Sul Titanic..
È bastato passare il confine per capire che da qui mi sarebbe servita attenzione, si ritornava nel mondo difficile nel quale molto spesso mi sono trovato a vivere.


È stato un colpo, quindi, un colpo col botto: cartelli di lavori in corso posizionati "alla cambogiana" (perchè la Cambogia è dentro ciascuno di noi, sottosviluppati) hanno fatto scivolare me e Rósa dalle stelle alle stalle, o per meglio dire, dalle stelle al brecciolino.. La moto che se ne va, grattandosi su un asfalto mal posto, ed io che la seguo sobbalzando sulla corazza da tartaruga ninja che le mille precauzioni primomondiste mi hanno imposto di avere, abbandonandomi alla visione uggiosa di un cielo uggioso perchè grigio e cieco perchè ceco, ossia senza pietà.



Si ferma un pulmino arrugginito, l'autista mi guarda come fossi una merda secca. Io lo ricambio perchè la sua pelle ha proprio quell'aspetto, segnata da anni di vento freddo ed inclemente sul trattore. L'evoluzione, anzi il progresso dell'uomo, l'ha portato a lasciare i campi per la civiltà ed ora il suo trattore ha pure i tergicristalli.

Rósa è sbucciata in vari punti, io di meno sul corpo ma di più sul cuore. Non riesco ad alzare la moto, ho male dentro, urlo alla merda secca di aiutarmi e quello rimane impassibile, data la sua natura. La compassione (con-passione) è un sentimento sconosciuto in queste zone abituate a costante e silenziosa sofferenza individuale nei campi, più o meno kolchoz, più o meno gulag.



Capisco che l'unica soluzione è comportarmi come loro: mi disinteresso di Rósa, di me stesso, della strada e di chi aspetta; mi disinteresso di tutto, pure di me stesso, mi metto a braccia conserte sul ciglio della strada, rimirando la situazione con indifferenza: nessuno può passare se Rósa è lì al centro del loro piccolo mondo..
Allora, e solo allora, qualcosa si muove: un tamarro baffone con la coda di cavallo e le rughe pure sul fegato scende dal bus e mugola qualcosa verso di me. Non vuole aiutarmi (qui non si aiuta nessuno!), vuole semplicemente andarsene da lì. Potrei fregarmene e nemmeno aiutarlo, sono un po' risentito dall'inumanità locale, ma quello è grosso e continua ad abbaiare verso di me. In due alziamo Rósa: le riscontro vari acciacchi, perde anche liquidi. Il traffico ricomincia a scorrere, nessun cenno di soccorso, nessun cenno di saluto, nessun cenno di vaffa. Solo ed unicamente indifferenza.

Rósa ed io ripartiamo con difficoltà, Rósa ed io vorremmo tornarcene da dove siamo venuti, in Germania, o ancora meglio, a casa.

Ma "non c'è male che per bene non venga" e allora il nostro sforzo viene ripagato da Praga, città di una bellezza strabordante dei ponti e dei palazzi
nel centro storico, delle vie ciottolate e delle luci gialle dei lampioni.........















.........che non maschera, al di fuori di esso, la propria "moderna" identità socialista.












Cosa Vedere/Fare

Kafka, la Skoda ed i caffè Ebel. La piazza dell'orologio e quella S.Venceslao. Magari una fabbrica di birra, ricordando che costa meno dell'acqua, dell'acqua della Coca-Cola.



Le viuzze senz'anima del centro, trappole per turisti dal ricordino facile.



La vita quotidiana della Praga popolare, con gli herna bar dove si gioca d'azzardo e si vincono milioni di Corone locali e i topless bar dove si spende tutto quello che si è vinto e si mette in mezzo anche la corona.
Vivere la promiscuità sessuale di donne forti, sane e muscolose, abituate a subire, abituate a lottare. Donne dalle spalle larghe ed i tratti spigolosi, dagli occhi grandi e belli come il mare.



Le splendide volte art deco della stazione centrale, sotto cui si staglia il mercato dell'usato più bello che abbia mai visto (capi vintage anni '80 dell'est europa... da impazzire!) e sotto cui tossici di ogni estrazione si scaldano la dose giusto accanto a sofisticate signore col cappellino intente a sorseggiare un ottimo cioccolato con panna.





Il fitto reticolato delle rotaie dei tram e di ogni linea tirata con lo scopo di guidare l'identità individuale.






Dormire

Da Bella, la mia amica inglese conosciuta in Cambogia, nell'Appartamento Spagnolo, il sogno realizzato di ogni studente Erasmus.




Mangiare

Un pezzo di "vera" pizza al taglio romana alla Pizzeria Giallorossa.



Altrimenti il gulash in qualche bettolaccia per muratori.


Divertimenti


Passeggiare dovunque non sia il centro e rimirare la follia della vita locale.


Spirito Nazionale

La Becherovka. Inginocchiatevi tutti davanti alla sua maestosità.




Spirito Europeo

I cechi non vogliono fare altro che diventare ricchi e pensavano che l'Europa gli avrebbe portato tanti euri tutti per loro su un trattore dorato. Vogliono centri commerciali (una bella Conad) e macchine grandi (un SUV della Skoda), vestire bene (da Tagliacozzo) e mangiare sofisticato (le patatine del Mc Donald's).
Purtroppo i soldi non crescono sugli alberi e nemmeno sottoterra tra i tuberi che si coltivano nelle campagne ceche. E allora ora i cechi sono diffidenti, si mettono a criticare questi europei che li hanno illusi solo per rubargli le donne con più facilità e tutte le altre bellezze che questo luogo fantastico offre (?).

Sì, vi abbiamo inculato, cechi.

E ora venite a protestare bussandoci alla porta, con le orecchie a sventola e la fronte spaziosa, il ciuffo insalivato ed cappello stretto stretto tra le mani.



Libri

Henry David Thoreau - Camminare


La Parola Di Nico


Te l'avevo detto io di non seguire mai i cartelli ma il tuo istinto di motociclista... Ma allora devo desumere che sia vero quello che si dice in giro su di te ai motoraduni, e cioè che non hai realmente fatto in pinna il tratto Copenhagen-Capo Nord nel 2003 come mi hai raccontato per convincermi a curare questa rubrica... Non so più che pensare!

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